Puerto Vallarta unites to pilgrimage,
a colorful celebration of faith and attraction appeal.
By Silvia Álvarez - December 2006
History has it that it was on Saturday, the 9th of December 1531 when Juan Diego, a young evangelized native was the only witness to the first of the appearances of a Virgin with dark complexion who affectionately called him my son and  asked him to build a chapel in her name on that place of the Tepeyac hill, in the outskirts of what someday would be one of the largest cities of the world. In spite of Juan’s insistence in telling the bishop his story, the religious man doubted his word, until on the 12th of December Juan brought him proof that he was telling the truth: the image of the virgin then acknowledged as the Virgin of Guadalupe was painted on his coarse cloak. To this day she is venerated in the Basilica that carries her name, precisely located on the small Tepeyac hill.
But the story had just begun and the people of Mexico were waking up little by little to this devotion which practically has turned into a national flag for the Catholics of the country. Year after year the 12th of December is celebrated as the day of the Virgin of Guadalupe and thus, while in other cities celebrations and parades are organized, here in Puerto Vallarta the excitement already begins in the middle of November during the preparation for one of the most anticipated traditional celebrations by locals and strangers.
The pilgrimages
From the first of December until the 12th of the same month, tens of thousands of people from the city as well as from nearby villages will congregate in groups in order to demonstrate their gratitude and faith, through a long walk downtown, while singing and dancing for several blocks in honor of the Virgin either accompanied by gorgeous allegorical cars frequently representing the scene of the miraculous appearance or dressed as the first Mexicans with feather headdresses and loincloths in order to dance non-stop until arriving at the cathedral of Puerto Vallarta, precisely dedicated to the Virgin of Guadalupe. One of greatest attractions during these days is sitting down on  the sidewalk of Juarez Street and watching from early on how each one of the pilgrimages passes. Costumes of the most original designs compete with each other demonstrating the fervor of Mexico. Some have simple painted fabrics; others are decorated with true works of art. Children and adults alike participate during this celebration. Sale booths are scattered throughout offering national snacks such as tacos and smoked tamales in order to satisfy the longings of the spectators.
For Esteban Salazar Gonzalez, the parish priest of the church, these religious manifestations have been carried out since eternity as a public demonstration of faith; nevertheless it was the priest Rafael Parra Castillo who gave this manifestation its heyday in the Sixties. Years later father Luis Ramirez Ortiz on his part also contributed to enrich the experience through a better organization turning it into a celebration highly anticipated not only by locals but also by visitors who adore the colorfulness of this tradition.
The offerings of the pilgrims range from flowers and money, to a stock of food or simply nothing else but the pleasure of visiting the Virgin. There are those who bring along mariachi or banda music, those who sing their faith out loud. "All of this depends on the possibilities of those who visit her, nobody is forced to give anything, it is up to each person’s wish and possibility,” says the parish priest. For him one of the most spectacular pilgrimages is the one called "the ones who were  favored.” This is when thousands of people pilgrimage non-stop for four uninterrupted hours until reaching the Church of Guadalupe in order to give thanks for favors granted by the Virgin. "Normally it starts at 11 in the morning at Woolworths and ends at 5 in the afternoon with thousands of people passing incessantly through Juarez street during all these hours. They are the ones who have received some kind of definite blessing, gaining relief from diseases, accidents or situations and people even go so far as to call them miracles”.
At present there are around 220 pilgrimages of the most varied types that are carried out during the twelve days. They include amongst them people from the humblest origins like masons, muleteers, fishermen, shoemakers and bakers up to those who are owners of the city’s largest companies such as hotels as well as service companies. All of them are united by their one single faith in the "Little Dark Lady" of Tepeyac.
Silvia Alvarez
E-mail: silvialvarezb@yahoo.com.mx
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