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Soyatan- Stones full of history |
Text & Photos by Silvia Álvarez – June 2007.
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 Soyatan is not a preferred tourist place nevertheless it will not be a mistake if you choose to explore the surroundings of Puerto Vallarta. Rent a car and once you identified it on the map take the highway to Las Palmas.
Approximately 35 minutes away from Puerto Vallarta, once you passed the town of Las Palmas and continue on the highway towards Mascota [on the left side] you will come across a modest sign saying Soyatan. It is the beginning of a simple but most beautiful wooded dirt track leading to this small village.
Once you are on this unpaved road the sierra will immediately greet you with majestic trees. Luckily it looks like they have not run into man and his plans of development yet. If you love to watch birds and observe botany, you will surely adore this track which is more recommendable during the dry season.
About 100 inhabitants or less live in the village whose large old worn-out houses can still be seen along the path. At present these homes are occupied by people dedicated to cattle breeding and agriculture, who cannot avoid displaying their pride because there was a time when they belonged to an important mining center, where the precious metals were  grinded by the hands of Texoquines Indians. They used huge rocks for the job which today are called "basins”. These rocks are different because they have cavities and holes which can store the crystalline water of the rainy season. "This water is warmed up by the sun but in order to take a dip I recommend you to visit one of the close-by waterfalls” narrates 70 year old Don Aniceto Bernal Garcia, who is one of the inhabitants of the place. He also tells us about the indigenous rock paintings that abound in the area and can easily be spotted.
One of largest painted rocks is located on private property and the owner poses on one side of the rock when you take a photo. The engravings show human figures, ellipses, circles, crosses and flowers whose meaning is unknown to those who live there now, but this has not stopped them from protecting these rocks like their cultural treasure, and a treasure they are indeed.
 The path towards the nearest waterfall (the one recommended by Don Aniceto) is quite winding but it is okay to walk afoot, besides there is no other option. The trip is well worth the trouble because in addition of having your lungs filled up with pure air, the view of the torrent upon arrival is spectacular receiving all visitors with a refreshing breeze, inviting them to take an invigorating swim.
Soyatan is peaceful and natural; it is not a tourist area and it does not offer the usual typical attractions nor the usual comforts, nevertheless it is a small charming destination for those who search to venture out for a few hours in order to experience tranquility and the hospitality of good people such as the inhabitants of Soyatan who perhaps in addition will tell you the history of their village which even nowadays is still hidden away in the Sierra.
Silvia Álvarez
E-mail: silvialvarezb@yahoo.com.mx
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