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FROM THE NORTH SHORE

  


Spinning in Mexico

by wayland - April 6, 2003. Version Español

I warn you that this is an unexpected and incongruous story full of curious juxtapositions, but sometimes that’s how life is, stranger than fiction. It starts about twenty years ago when we were still living in England. We have always been very interested in spinning, weaving, dyeing cloth, and making costume. At that time we had been finding out about spinning wheels by using a variety of types of spinning wheels we had borrowed from friends. From this experience, we developed our own ideas on how to make a very simple, elemental, lightweight, portable spinning wheel.

At that time we were building a paper boat, but more about that later. We were living on the wooded slopes of the Cotswolds. I found that someone had cut up a wild cherry tree for firewood in the nearby woods. Since I felt that this beautiful wood seemed worthy of a finer destiny, I carried the best logs back to camp and made it into the spinning wheel that we had been planning. I made the wheel so that it could be quickly dismantled and packed into a handy camel saddlebag. It was a kind of distillation of all we had ever learnt about spinning wheels. It weighed 12 pounds and was a present to ourselves for the Christmas of 1980. We christened the new wheel ‘Trillis’.

It took us 2 1/2 years to complete our 32 foot catamaran Taulua. We sailed from Bristol, England in 1982, sailing south to the Canary Islands, and then West across the Atlantic to the Americas. We stayed 9 months in Panama, living mostly on an island off the Pacific coast. We were 4 years in Costa Rica where we rented a boat yard, built masts, sailing fishing boats, and fished. Then we were two years in Nicaragua where we chartered our boat and generally got on very well with the Sandinista government. We arrived in Mexico in 1990 and made our way up the Pacific coast visiting all the ports and beaches.

When we reached Puerto Vallarta we stopped to make some money repairing sails and doing carpentry jobs. I was going round the boats in Nuevo Vallarta talking to the skippers and asking who had any sewing or carpentry to be done when one skipper asked me out of the blue, “Can you by any chance make me a spinning wheel” How could he ever have known? Well of course we had Trillis packed up in the camel bag and securely stowed in the starboard bow of Taulua. I invited him to come round in the evening to see it.

He was a North American called Dug who had a small spinning, dying and weaving factory in Oaxaca. The problem was that his industrial spinning equipment wouldn’t handle the local wool. His complaint was that the Mexicans didn’t shear their sheep just once a year like everyone else, but whenever they felt like it. A birthday, a marriage, Christmas, need some money? Go and shear some sheep! The consequence of all this shearing is of course, very short wool; too short for Doug’s machine. The indomitable Doug therefore put the wool through his carders and combers and produced barrels of sliver that he delivered to an indigenous community where they spun it in a kind of cottage industry. They used the “great wheel” which has to be turned with one hand and is therefore slower to operate than the treadle powered spinning wheel that leaves both hands free to spin continuously. Dug wanted to boost production by introducing the treadle spinning wheel, so he was delighted that evening when we demonstrated Trillis. We agreed to make him two machines and he put down a 50 peso deposit. The next day he sailed on Southward and I don’t know if he really thought that he’d ever see us again.

Meanwhile we had made friends with a Huichol Indian who sold his artwork in Puerto Vallarta and who often came to stay with us on our catamaran. When we had made enough money we went to visit him in the Sierra where we meet his mother. There we saw the very fine and beautiful woolen thread that she spun and plied up to weave pouches and belts for her family. All this she did with nothing more than a spindle, but it took her months to do it. In fact, it took her longer to spin her yarn than to weave it. We realized what a difference a good spinning wheel would make to her. If anyone deserved one, she did, and we resolved to make her one.

Living in the big marina was expensive, so as soon as we had finished our sail–making stint we looked for a free anchorage. Trouble was that we had passed into the hurricane zone. In this part of the world, when the rainy season begins in June one either moves out or anchors in the security of a ‘hurricane hole’. The Bay of Baderas is a safe place, but outside of the marinas, there are very few places to anchor, but one such place is La Cruz de Huanacaxtle. At that time the inner harbor of La Cruz was still quite deep enough for small sailing boats and it was a truly excellent anchorage. It was so protected and calm that we considered it one of the best harbors we had come across.

On the morning of our first day in La Cruz as we breakfasted, I was wondering how on earth I was going to find a local wood suitable for steam bending to make the spinning wheels. I couldn’t think because of an annoying noise in the background and I cursed. Then I realized that the noise was from a chain saw! I left my breakfast right then and there to paddle ashore to find the scene of activity before the guiding noise would stop. Someone was cutting down a fruit tree. I could see that it was a beautiful wood and definitely seemed worthy of a finer destiny than to be burnt. Just as I had finished convincing the owner of the tree to give me a log I heard another awful din. It was the whine of a circular saw, so I hurried across to the other side of the village where I found the source of the noise and discovered the village carpenter. I couldn’t have been more fortunate because he became very enthusiastic about making spinning wheels and offered me the use of his workshop. So that was how it all began.

It was a lot of hard work in the humid heat of the Mexican summer. Gradually the wheels took shape but all too rapidly we became completely broke. However, we made friends with the family that made the fresh drinks and ice cream that we appreciated so much, and they lent us enough money to keep going. Finishing the spinning wheels seemed to be an interminable job. We were forever rowing back and forth from Taulua to the shore since much of the fine work we did afloat because the carpenter’s shop was often very busy.

We wanted to deliver the spinning wheels ourselves to show Dug’s spinners how to use the new machines. Then another piece of the jigsaw puzzle fell into place, we made friends with an Iranian called Hussein who invited us to join him on a camping trip to Oaxaca. We drove with him to the other end of Mexico. Five days later, we delivered the spinning wheels and Aruna could show the spinners how to use them. Meanwhile Hussein had run out of time and almost at once we were off again!

Soon after our return we met a functionary of the local government. He was the co–coordinator for the development of crafts in the state of Nayarit where we are. He liked Trellis enough to ask us to make 5 more spinning wheels to be ready for the state fair, ‘La Feria de la Mexicanidad’. This was due to begin in only two months so we had to be quick. By this time I had begun to modify Trillis to make it more massive and sturdy. I had noticed how the Indians of Oaxaca kept their spinning wheels in the courtyard with the chickens, pigs, and even donkeys which came trotting past. I noticed the more massive construction of their other artifacts and got the message: “for this purpose the spinning wheel didn’t have to be collapsible so much as bomb–proof”. I also noticed how the people liked turned wood so I introduced some turning into the now much more massive post. Often we had to improvise, and I mexicanised the flier unit because the original brass unit would have been too expensive. Instead I bought locally made wooden stirrups which are from strips of a special wood that had been steam bent into a U–shape. One stirrup sliced in two and tidied up makes a pair of good-looking fliers.

By now we were beginning to know the local woods. The wood most commonly used for steam bending is Guacimo. It bends excellently but is very light. Really, I wanted to use a heavier wood not only to be tougher, but also to give the wheel more momentum when it spun. Everyone spoke in awe of a small tree called Cuate that is very strong, hard, and heavy and doesn’t rot or gets eaten by bugs. It is reputed to steam bend beautifully. I went exploring in the hi lls and found a man who would get me the straight posts I needed. He promised to send me word. Well, eventually the word came and we went with a friend who has a pickup truck, but there was no wood! The problem? The army was all over the hills looking for marijuana. Anything could happen to the poor soul found up there! He wasn’t just making excuses; we could see the army helicopters buzzing about.

By now time was getting on and we couldn’t make another trip to the hills so we had to use another wood. Fortunately, we had a contingency plan. My inquires had aroused the interest of a farmer in our village when I had been asking about woods that could be steam bent. Almost everyday he’d bring me back a branch of another tree that he reckoned would be a good wood to bend. Before long I was inundated with all these samples, so I cut them into strip and steam bent them all. The best wood was a common weed tree called Juan Perez. Then we set off on horseback into the ‘monte’ to fetch logs of Juan Perez.

While all this had been going on we had at last been able to make a proper mould with which to steam bend the wheels. The old way to make a wooden wheel was to cut quadrants out of a board and to then join them together to make the complete circle. But these wheels are not very strong or stable. With the advent of plywood and composites it is now more common to cut a disc out of such a sheet. But these wheels tend to be rather thin and lightweight, and just plain ugly. The best method is to steam bend battens into hoops, and then to laminate the hoops together to give the thickness required. This makes a wide strong and stable heavy wheel which will spin with plenty of momentum, and it can be made without wasting any wood. With good organization steam bending can be very quick and efficient, but it all depends on having a good mould to bend the wood around.

The first wh eels we had made on a mould improvised from the rim of a car wheel. Now we wanted to make a proper bending jig. This would need machine workshop facilities and that could be expensive. However we found that this apparently sleepy and forgotten village of La Cruz de Huanacaxtle was actually very well endowed with just about everything. For example, tucked away out of sight at the back of the village, unbeknown to us, was a sizeable school of fishers. We found this school to be well equipped with a good machine workshop. At that time, the president of the school was Tapia Sandoval and he gave us permission to use the school workshops.

We found a suitable iron wheel. It was one of those wide flat cast iron pulley wheels that were once used to drive belt driven machinery. In the workshop we adapted it and made the rollers and the bending jig from the drawings I had made. Then we were ready to go into mass production.

Now we had the materials but we were losing badly in the race against time to be ready for the fair. Only by working day and night did we managed to get the first two spinning wheels ready for the beginni ng of the fair. Aruna took them to Tepic while I completed the other three and brought them up a few days later.

The fair lasted three weeks and was a good opportunity for us to contact a wide spectrum of the Mexican public. We met many Huichol and Cora Indians who were fascinated by the spinning wheels but very shy. Too shy to try one. However, I found that their children were often bold enough to sit and treadle the wheel. I’d get them to ply some wool and then leave them tread ling the wheel. If I peeked back later, mum would be sitting there happily tread ling away at the wheel, a little stiff and awkward as all people are at first, but mastering it.

Everyone was fascinated by the wheel and as soon as Aruna sat down to spin a crowd would gather. She sold one wheel to a Mexican lady, but it was really the indigenous people who wanted them. Even though we were selling the spinning wheels very cheaply we realized there would be few Coras or Huichols who could afford to buy one. Especially since they are such a traditional people with an extremely cautious attitude to new things.

The money we were selling the spinning wheels for wasn’t nearly enough to cover the costs. This we had realized when we started so we had been selling T–shirts we had printed with designs from Huichol yarn paintings. We took our printing machine with us to the fair where we made another demonstration out of silkscreen printing, but this one was a moneymaker.

Financially, it was the T–shirts that carried the day. For the previous two months, while we had been making this new batch of spinning wheels we had had to borrow money once again from all our friends in the village. After the fair in Tepic we returned to our little village victorious. We paid back everyone and still had something left for Christmas. Already my little daughter had her hearts desire, a bicycle.

Nowadays the Huichol tend to use acrylic fiber, which they can buy, in all the neighboring towns in a wide variety of colors. It is sold unplied so they always have to ply it, even those who use artificial fiber instead of wool. Acrylic costs the equivalent of 7 U.S. dollars per kilo. We bought a fleece of wool in the Sierra that cost 5 dollars for a whole fleece of about 2 kilos. Articles woven from wool sell for about twice the price of those made from acrylic fiber. This means that for almost a third the price something twice as valuable is produced.

While we see that the Huichol have precious little in the way of warm clothes. There is a tendency for well meaning North Americans to give them old clothes. Suddenly one can come across a bunch of Huichols in cast off Mickey Mouse sweaters, a horrible contrast to what they would otherwise wear. Our preference is to do what we can to make the weaving of cloth for clothes as quick and efficient as possible. I am sure that the key lies in the ability to prepare good woolen yarn quickly, and this is where the spinning wheel can have an important role to play.

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