Festival Gourmet International 2007 - Chef's table at The River Café By mango – Vallarta Gastronomy Paper- January 2008
Photos by: Jesús de Avila | Translation by Eduardo Rincón Gallardo
Enveloped by an atmosphere bathed by casual and romantic elegance, The River Café gave a warm welcome to its most awaited Chef’s table, where two experienced masters surprised all with bright dishes from a menu with the traditional and honorable European essence.
Chefs Angel Nodal Llobera and Carlos Nuere, poured into every recipe the result of hundreds of culinary adventures each one has experienced along their journeys through the fascinating world of Spanish cuisine. Simplicity and color were the most vital elements in their success with their guests, some of which even closed their eyes with every mouthful, as if wanting to transport themselves to the place where the idea of preparing something with such an exquisite flavor originated.
Not long before all the guests had arrived, chef Carlos Nuere paced nervously up and down the restaurant’s lobby, like one wanting to recognize every space in a venue where son a great event would teka place. Which is exactly what was going to happen. I immediately went to ask him to let me take his picture at the restaurant’s entrance, which he agreed to quite enthusiastically. While I took the picture I started bombarding him with questions and leading him into conversation.
Chef Angel Nodal left the kitchen where the last details of his preparation were being met and we immediately invited him into what already was an oficial interview.
On tonight’s theme, “Dom Quixote’s Flavors”, they said: Our goal is to share the essence of our traditional preparation and our purpose is to demonstrate how, with the soul of our cuisine in a fusion with the products and elements of Mexico, we can give life to an exquisite form of expression that is a colorful combination of flavors that show the joy, the warmth and the passion of both cultures united with a common goal, the satisfaction of those gathered here tonight.
The chef’s table began with an aged leg of pork put o display at the main dining room’s entrance. While the chef Carlos Nuere performed fine and delicate cuts, everyone gathered around to receive splendid slices accompanied by a strong tasting cheese in cut in thick triangles that brought about faces of real surprise and delight. Questions about the pork leg’s origins, its aging and preparation were just the right entry for guests into the chef’s world, who answered each question in full detail while simultaneously serving with the grace of a master.
The menu included entrées such as the colorful “Salad of leaves with Cornish Hen and vinaigrette in its relish”, as wellas the “Wild Mushrooms with mi-cuit and Alcarria Honey”, that left in your palate a subtle flavor of the Spanish countryside. Among the soups, one sttod out, the “Dulcinea cold tomato cream soup with Iberia Ham crust” presented on the table in colorful Mexican handcrafted vessels, slowly pouring the soup where the crunchy ham awaited to be drowned.
Among the main entrées tasted were “Mahi-Mahi in strong garlic (orchard sauce) with trout Roe” which most commented invaded their palates with an unexpected and then unknown texture. Also a “Duck Magret with Toboso figs’ chutney”, “Stuffed Cornish Hen (with onions, carrots and White wine) Tledana style”, and, of course, a “Confitted Piglet in the ways of Sancho and fruit compote”.
All dishes evoking the great literary odyssey of Dom Quixote and rolling out to the sound of the flowing waters of the Cuale River, washing the banks of the restaurant, the night went on to the rhythm of the melodies of “Beverly & Willow” and the laughs and conversations, sounds of toasting glasses and various expressions of exquisite joy.
The perfect complement were the wines recommended by the star sommelier. Some of them were: Doña Raquel Verdejo; from white grapes just right to go along with the Cold Tomato Cream Soup. The Lagar de Candes Albariño; a wine with balanced acids and sugars, the just kind to enrich the Honeyed Rice with Shrimps and dried fruits sauce. The Fuestepina Granate; with its exquisite texture was the ideal accompaniment for the Leaves Salad with Cornish, and the Moscatel wine; mature with a sweet and firm taste, just right to wrap up the evening with the “Tradiciones de la Mancha” dessert.
Everything was in place and at the right time, the a soft energy permeated the ambiance, flowing at the same rhythm as the aromas traveled their course to their recipients, by courteous waiters, filling every corner of the restaurant.
From my own point of view, the Chef’s table (it was really the chefs’ table), at the River Café, resulted in a soirée of traditional Spanish flavor, with a warm and fine Mexican taste, enveloped in what I would call an upbeat air with a contemporary and international influence. And, as Chef Angel Nodal would say in astonishment during our initial interview, that this happened “in a place where there are no walls! And surrounded by incredible nature!”. “Hombre, this is stupendous, impressing and amazing!” (This I say myself, of course, and with a Spanish accent!).
I take my leave with a high regard for the hospitality of Mrs. Evita and her husband Margarito Larios —owners of this prestigious restaurant— who opened their doors so we could experience this robust and tasteful culinary adventure. E-mail to a friend
Thank you very much and Happy New Year!....
The River Café Owners: Evita & Margarito Larios | Chef: Vicente Montes
International – Open everyday from 9:00 to 11:30 hrs.
Breakfast · Lunch · Dinner | Amex · Visa · Master Card
Isla Río Cuale Local 4. Centro. Puerto Vallarta, Jal. 48300
Phone: (322) 223-0788
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Chefs Angel Nodal Llobera and Carlos Nuere, poured into every recipe the result of hundreds of culinary adventures each one has experienced along their journeys through the fascinating world of Spanish cuisine. Simplicity and color were the most vital elements in their success with their guests, some of which even closed their eyes with every mouthful, as if wanting to transport themselves to the place where the idea of preparing something with such an exquisite flavor originated. 
On tonight’s theme, “Dom Quixote’s Flavors”, they said: Our goal is to share the essence of our traditional preparation and our purpose is to demonstrate how, with the soul of our cuisine in a fusion with the products and elements of Mexico, we can give life to an exquisite form of expression that is a colorful combination of flavors that show the joy, the warmth and the passion of both cultures united with a common goal, the satisfaction of those gathered here tonight.
The menu included entrées such as the colorful “Salad of leaves with Cornish Hen and vinaigrette in its relish”, as wellas the “Wild Mushrooms with mi-cuit and Alcarria Honey”, that left in your palate a subtle flavor of the Spanish countryside. Among the soups, one sttod out, the “Dulcinea cold tomato cream soup with Iberia Ham crust” presented on the table in colorful Mexican handcrafted vessels, slowly pouring the soup where the crunchy ham awaited to be drowned. 
From my own point of view, the Chef’s table (it was really the chefs’ table), at the River Café, resulted in a soirée of traditional Spanish flavor, with a warm and fine Mexican taste, enveloped in what I would call an upbeat air with a contemporary and international influence. And, as Chef Angel Nodal would say in astonishment during our initial interview, that this happened “in a place where there are no walls! And surrounded by incredible nature!”. “Hombre, this is stupendous, impressing and amazing!” (This I say myself, of course, and with a Spanish accent!).
