Trio … for your dining pleasure By Gary Beck & AnNa Reisman • mango– Vallarta Gourmet Paper • Photos by Jesús de Avila • June 2009
In 1997, when owners/chefs Bernhard Güth and Ulf Henriksson founded this special restaurant, they modeled the interior after what was imaged inside a Tuscan country villa - which they knew and had painted on the far wall as you enter. All materials are natural, from the tile work, marble floor, wooden bar and tables… to the stones. One enters Tuscany right past the heavy front doors.
Taking advantage of the situation engendered by the authorities’ recent regulations, the Chefs have “refreshed” the entire restaurant during these past two weeks, literally.
Aside from its renowned rich wood moldings, frescoes reminiscent of Tuscany and trompe l’oeil details, the comfortable upholstered chairs, crisp white tablecloths and napkins, the glistening tableware and the most mouth-watering aromas wafting by as the courteous, efficient wait staff comes in carrying one succulent dish after another… Trio now offers air conditioning!
With an ever changing menu and professional, efficient service, this is a formal spot popular with devoted clientele who rave of the Five Star Diamond award Mediterranean haute cuisine.
We started with a thick slice of smoked salmon wrapped around a crab salad in a julienned cucumber chipotle yogurt dressing. It laid atop plentiful watercress tossed in seaweed rice vinegar. The subtle flavors allowed the salmon and crab to stand out front. The ravioli stuffed with full-flavored spicy lamb were nestled on a ratatouille of red and green pepper, eggplant, zucchini, onion, tomato, basil and olive oil. Again, the meat flavors were dominant and not masked by but melded with various ingredients. Pasta was thin, smooth and properly tender. The warm spinach soup featured two large finely chopped vegetable and ricotta quenelles made of coarse wheat semolina bran. Light and delicate, they resembled airy gnocchi, though not comprised of puréed potato. Simply divine.
The chili-roasted red snapper [huachinango] fillet was thick and moist and accompanied by local San Blas shrimp and Vermouth sauce. Also included were very thin pesto ravioli with freshly grated cheese. A fish entrée at its best. The chicken and prosciutto saltimbocca were arranged over Tuscan-style bread, accompanied by a tomato and fresh herb salad flavored with reserved, slightly sweet balsamic vinegar. Day old bread cubes are the hallmark of this country dish. The Parmesan and sweet pea risotto was moist and creamy with small pieces of rosemary-roasted veal golden brown from caramelized onion, with Marsala sauce highlighting garlic, thyme, wine and olive oil.
Of course, the dessert menu and special coffees are ideal to end a most special dinner in style.
A delicate and delicious apple strudel with vanilla ice cream featured soft apples flavored with brown sugar in a thin flaky crust. Sign of fine pastry. The tangy and sweet lime and coconut sorbet was served with mango and strawberry salad, and the crème brûlée was prepared properly, resulting in a fine texture, crisp top and forward vanilla flavor.
The wine list is ample and well-chosen, as are the aperitifs and digestifs.
There is also a Chefs' 4-course special menu. In high season, when there are no rains, the upstairs dining rooftop tropical garden terrace vista is open.
Trio's philosophy is simple: “Mediterranean food cooked with love”. If you’ve seen the movie “Like water for chocolate”, then you know what that special added ingredient represents to the finished product: sumptuous, unctuous, sensuous perfection. That is what we’ve always found at Trio.
Please remember: this is still one of the few establishments where reservations are highly recommended – regardless of the season or circumstances.
When you consider the elegance of the place, the quality of its service and its food - and its reputation - Trio is a treat indeed!
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