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El Arrayán By Gary Beck • mango– Vallarta Gourmet Paper • Photos by Jesús de Avila • July 2009
Oft times, we have visitors ask us to take them to an authentic traditional Mexican restaurant, not like ones NOTB which serve common foods rarely seen down in Puerto Vallarta. We suggest El Arrayán, where dishes from recipes of past generations are proudly offered. Every May, this is one automatic place to visit once again. Named for the aromatic Jaliscan flowering tree found in the restaurant's courtyard, since 2003 delightful owners Carmen Porras E. and Claudia Victoria, plus chef Mariano Valdés, have presented traditional menu choices of old Mexican family recipe specialties. Open kitchen and lovely romantic space feature an array of art, including local Huichol work, with traditional Mexican influence.
Our group sampled all nine dishes in the three courses offered. A personal favorite surfaced in the presentation of two ceviches: a glass of green mixture held ceviche Colima with baby scallops and avocado, with a second glass of shrimp, slightly sweet tomato purée, green olives and avocado. Neither is seen here often, very unlike the standard red, green and white ceviche. The portion was enormous so everyone had healthy tastes. Also greatly enjoyed was a smooth country-style duck pâté, rich and crumbly, with picante morita pepper oil and habanero marmalade. Toast points were provided to spread with the accompaniments.
All three entrées were enticing. The mild and ultra tender filet mignon was accented by two restrained sauces: huitlacoche, black corn fungus, and flor de calabaza, zucchini blossom, cream sauce. The mild meat stood up to the accents. The presentation was lovely. Mahi mahi was the fish of the day and the fillets were sautéed and served with a dried chili mole with fruit flavors. Tiny new potato halves with medium spice accompanied. Cochinita pibil, a pork leg stew, was similar to stewed pork shredded and flavored with mild spices. The meat was juicy, tender and flavorful. Warm tortillas were used for rolling the mixture. The three plates tested the kitchen's breadth, with the staff succeeding.
Possibly best of all were the three desserts. Paradise worth the wait. Papaya candy was whole fruit cooked into sweet firm sweet chunks. Some of us ate the meat plus the skin as it was flavorful and rather tender. A lovely caramel flan, flan de cajeta, was prepared quite properly, with no air bubbles resulting from too high oven temperature, yet had the classic crisp film on top. Lastly offered was a duo of helados and sorbet. Choose from passion fruit, tamarind and lime plus creamy vanilla, chocolate, café de olla and avocado. Part of the fun was choosing two which were disparate, yet interesting in the combination of flavors and colors. Creative ordering!
High season Saturdays, around 7 p.m., features Los Frixoleros [Danny and Camila]. Again voted by Virtual Vallarta readers 2008 “Best Mexican” 4 years in a row. Recently awarded the AAA three diamond award, a rarity in Mexico. Event catering and cooking classes available. El Arrayán is a place to visit often, with friends and family, and not only during the festival, since the daily menu contains many exciting choices not seen elsewhere. Email to a friend
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