Kaiser Maximilian By Gary Beck • mango– Vallarta Gourmet Paper • Photos by Jesus de Avila • September 2009
Since 1995, owner Andreas Rupprechter and chef Carlos Palomera have provided Austrian and German cuisine elegantly served in an upscale A/C interior or the lively exterior sidewalk bistro. The 5* Diamond award food is matched only by the ambience and great staff service. Next door is a slightly more casual café serving all meals, in addition to scrumptious desserts and specialty coffee drinks. White linen and dark wood set this operation apart from its neighbors. During the 009 Restaurant Week, a choice of 8 starters, 10 entrées and 10 desserts was offered in a 3-course meal. With that many options, we needed extra time to read and discuss our choices.
Among the first courses, we chose the marinated beet and carrot salad with goat cheese, a simply marvelous combination of flavors and textures. The vegetables were cooked al dente and worked well with the assorted greens lightly dressed in a mixed berry balsamic dressing. Large house-made raviolis were filled with fresh fennel, wild mushrooms and prosciutto. A rich creamy tarragon sauce enveloped the plate, with all flavors melding and not overwhelming each other. A special red cabbage soup arrived topped with crisp duck pieces, lightly fried, and a tender potato dumpling. Again, the layers of flavors worked together, not in competition.
Choosing our main courses was a textbook in patience and bartering. We wanted to sample all of them, but chose several to share. Fork-tender sautéed pork loin scallops were presented with long house-made noodles, tossed in a mushroom cream sauce. This dish was near perfection. Top quality beef tenderloin, large and thick, cooked as ordered, arrived with red flannel hash and a green peppercorn and hollandaise sauce. The dish showed clearly that there is very fine quality beef available locally. A combination plate included grilled fresh fish fillet, a handful of sweet sautéed shrimp and a half chicken breast. Alongside was a sweet red pepper stuffed with seasoned rice and sauced with medium spicy smoked chipotle. The flavors blended quite well.
When picturing meals originating from this region, one imagines luscious desserts as Sacher torte, a dense, rich, yet light, chocolate cake drizzled with berry syrup. It was matched with a large portion of warm apple pecan strudel, light-crusted and delicate, not overly sweet. Crispy golden crêpes were filled with cool peaches and whipped cream. A cup of yogurt sat aside them. The effect was divine. Forkfuls of chocolate mousse torte, smooth and rich with a very soft texturewere met with blissful sighs. It was accented with a cup of strawberries in sweet natural syrup. The pecan bourbon chocolate torte was highlighted by a wonderful crust and layers of chunky nut meats, this time served with a ramekin of sweet raspberries.
For well-prepared European fare in an elegant old-world style destination, a visit is necessary and most pleasurable. Email to a friend
• Kaiser Maximilian Restaurant & Cafe
Olas Altas 380-A, Colonia Emiliano Zapata,
Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco, 48380, México
Telephone: (322) 223-0760 & 222-5058
Reservations are recommended.
Open Monday to Saturday 8 a.m. to 11 p.m. Website: http://www.kaisermaximilian.com
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