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VALLARTA PEOPLE

          

Da Antonio's - Alta Cocina in Vallarta
Text and photos by Anna Reisman
September 7, 2003

Though I've never been able to find out exactly why, there seems to be some sort of reluctance among people when it comes to dining in hotel restaurants - with few exceptions. The honor of participating in our now famous annual Gourmet Festival is not easy to get and yet, here in Puerto Vallarta, some of the very best restaurants are located in the town’s hotels. Now there is one more, and it definitely makes the grade!

The name is Da Antonio, a place that is an absolute delight from every point of view - ambiance, décor, service and of course, Italian “Alta Cocina” (haute cuisine in French). In addition, diners who choose a table by the floor-to-ceiling windows will have an incredible view of the bay.

The young chef responsible for the creation of the delightful dishes on the menu is Christian Testa. A native of Genoa, Italy, this gifted 27-year old offers his guests a culinary voyage through his homeland, a country renowned around the world for the variety of its gastronomical offerings. Despite his youth, his career has already enabled him to please connoisseurs in some of the best eating establishments in Italy, Bermuda and Mexico (where he worked at Alfredo di Roma, known as one of the best restaurants in this country).

We went for the five-course degustation menu. Our meal began with Christian’s famous “Torre all’Antonio”, an impressive three-tiered presentation of antipasti that included salmon, mortadella, prosciutto, grilled veggies and other thinly sliced, delicately flavored delights. Our group also shared a plate of perfectly lightly fried calamari.

In typical Italian fashion, that was followed by a serving of one of the house’s specialties, the authentic Fettucine Alfredo - truly al dente, light and fresh. We also enjoyed a hearty serving of Ravioli alla Boscaiola, bathed in a meat, mushroom and tomato sauce that brought out oohs and aahs from the whole group.

Da Antonio follows the practice of offering a palate-cleansing sorbet mid-meal. On the night we were there, it was made with cherry tomatoes. Wow!

Main courses continued on a high note. We enjoyed the most tender filets of beef and veal, served with a red wine sauce enhanced with mint. Moist, cooked just beyond rosé, the way they should be, with the sauce complementing rather than overwhelming the meat.

By the time we got to the desserts, we’d become friends with Chef Christian. He had came out a few times to describe the dishes to us, eager to see our reaction to the first bites. So now he wanted us to try one of each of his dessert creations, so he brought one of each to the table. We all got a forkful. Although they were all sumptuous, my personal favorite was the chocolate frozen mousse. And as expected, the espresso was excellent.

Throughout the feast, it had became obvious to us that the wait staff at Da Antonio takes great pride in their work. By mid-meal, we had noticed little details like the perfect timing of the dishes, the replenishing of the bread basket and the waiter's offer to refill your wine glass, smoothly rehearsed.

In the opinion of this writer and her friends, this restaurant is sure to become a favorite among those who want to have a romantic, memorable dinner, accompanied by soft, soothing live piano music, in an elegant, authentically Italian restaurant, with an incredible view of the bay. And who knows? It might even be the one to change the minds of those who are still reluctant to try hotel restaurants…

Price range: Appetizers $90 to $120 pesos; pastas $90 to $130 pesos; main courses $160 to $230 pesos; desserts $55 pesos.

Da Antonio is located at the Presidente InterContinental Hotel only 10 minutes south of town (at the speed limit). It is open from Monday to Saturday from 6 to 11 p.m. Reservations: 228-0507 / 228-0191.


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