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Da Antonio's -
Alta Cocina in Vallarta
Text and photos by Anna Reisman
September 7, 2003
Though
I've never been able to find out exactly why, there
seems to be some sort of reluctance among people when
it comes to dining in hotel restaurants - with few exceptions.
The honor of participating in our now famous annual
Gourmet Festival is not easy to get and yet, here in
Puerto Vallarta, some of the very best restaurants are
located in the town’s hotels. Now there is one
more, and it definitely makes the grade!
The name is Da Antonio, a place that
is an absolute delight from every point of view - ambiance,
décor, service and of course, Italian “Alta
Cocina” (haute cuisine in French). In addition,
diners who choose a table by the floor-to-ceiling windows
will have an incredible view of the bay.
The young chef responsible for the
creation of the delightful dishes on the menu is Christian
Testa. A native of Genoa, Italy, this gifted 27-year
old offers his guests a culinary voyage through his
homeland, a country renowned around the world for the
variety of its gastronomical offerings. Despite his
youth, his career has already enabled him to please
connoisseurs in some of the best eating establishments
in Italy, Bermuda and Mexico (where he worked at Alfredo
di Roma, known as one of the best restaurants in this
country).
We went for the five-course degustation
menu. Our meal began with Christian’s famous “Torre
all’Antonio”, an impressive three-tiered
presentation of antipasti that included salmon, mortadella,
prosciutto, grilled veggies and other thinly sliced,
delicately flavored delights. Our group also shared
a plate of perfectly lightly fried calamari.
In
typical Italian fashion, that was followed by a serving
of one of the house’s specialties, the authentic
Fettucine Alfredo - truly al dente, light and fresh.
We also enjoyed a hearty serving of Ravioli alla Boscaiola,
bathed in a meat, mushroom and tomato sauce that brought
out oohs and aahs from the whole group.
Da Antonio follows the practice of
offering a palate-cleansing sorbet mid-meal. On the
night we were there, it was made with cherry tomatoes.
Wow!
Main courses continued on a high
note. We enjoyed the most tender filets of beef and
veal, served with a red wine sauce enhanced with mint.
Moist, cooked just beyond rosé, the way they
should be, with the sauce complementing rather than
overwhelming the meat.
By the time we got to the desserts,
we’d become friends with Chef Christian. He had
came out a few times to describe the dishes to us, eager
to see our reaction to the first bites. So now he wanted
us to try one of each of his dessert creations, so he
brought one of each to the table. We all got a forkful.
Although they were all sumptuous, my personal favorite
was the chocolate frozen mousse. And as expected, the
espresso was excellent.
Throughout the feast, it had became
obvious to us that the wait staff at Da Antonio takes
great pride in their work. By mid-meal, we had noticed
little details like the perfect timing of the dishes,
the replenishing of the bread basket and the waiter's
offer to refill your wine glass, smoothly rehearsed.
In the opinion of this writer and
her friends, this restaurant is sure to become a favorite
among those who want to have a romantic, memorable dinner,
accompanied by soft, soothing live piano music, in an
elegant, authentically Italian restaurant, with an incredible
view of the bay. And who knows? It might even be the
one to change the minds of those who are still reluctant
to try hotel restaurants…
Price range: Appetizers $90 to $120
pesos; pastas $90 to $130 pesos; main courses $160 to
$230 pesos; desserts $55 pesos.
Da Antonio is located at the Presidente
InterContinental Hotel only 10 minutes south of town
(at the speed limit). It is open from Monday to Saturday
from 6 to 11 p.m. Reservations: 228-0507 / 228-0191.
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