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OUR TASTE

  

000122 Visit since

Café Frankfurt

by Anna Reisman - May 28, 2001.

Every once in a while, things happen to us to remind us why we love Puerto Vallarta so much. In this one particular case, it was the truly serendipitous discovery (a couple of years ago) of a place very close to my house, which I had heard about but had never visited: Café Frankfurt.

Every day, for one reason or another, I walk or drive along Basilio Badillo - otherwise known as the Street of the Cafés or Restaurant Row, depending on what you're reading. There is a sign hanging on the front of the building located between Tapas and Roberto's Puerto Nuevo that says "Café Frankfurt", but when you look in, there is nothing to entice you to venture further. Façades can be truly deceiving!

One day, I decided to ask my German girlfriend if she wanted to come with me to this German restaurant I had heard so much about. I wanted someone with me who would give me an "connaisseur"'s opinion of the food... while I could write about the place itself.

We followed the direction indicated by the arrow in the lobby of what appeared to be a small hotel. What a surprise awaited us! The path is lined with palms that form an enchanting arch over one's head, and leads to an open-air garden setting that is nothing short of unbelievable. Here you are, a few feet from Basilio Badillo street and all its hubbub, in absolute quiet. There is no noise, just sweet, low music from some hidden source. There are old-fashioned lamposts all around, and little tables set with bright tablecloths all over an immaculately clean patio floor.

We've gone back to Café Frankfurt dozens of times since then. We've been there for lunch, fund-raising events, and many, many dinners. Never have we been disappointed.

The menu is very simple, nothing ostentatious, just good hearty fare at most reasonable prices. There are soups and appetizers but for us, the main dishes always take precedence. I think I've sampled just about all of them over the past couple of years. The last time we were there, my friend ordered the herring in sour cream to start with, followed by the classic Wienerschnitzel (made with veal, not pork) with "house" potatoes, and I asked for the veal Bratwurst with spaetzle.

There's always a basket of freshly baked bread to sop up the various sauces (in this case, it was the sour cream and onions that came with the herring...), along with a small tub of seasoned butter and a bowl of cooked red cabbage that is just delicious.

Service is very prompt, friendly and courteous at Café Frankfurt. My friend (who had never eaten there before) cut into her Wienerschnitzel, took a bite, and smiled. Enough said. My veal sausage was as always: lovely, delicate, tasty and grilled just right. If you like hot mustard as I do, it elevates the wurst (sausage) to the level of perfection. The spaetzle are well-seasoned and delicious. Everyone is always amazed at the utter peace and quiet that reigns in the garden. So close to the street, and yet a little world apart...

The dessert list is short and sweet, and the portions are most generous. The Apfelstrudel (apple strudel) is loaded with apples and raisins, all wrapped in a light, flaky pastry (which the Greeks call filo and the French Millefeuilles) dusted with icing sugar. Café Frankfurt scores an "A" there. And I'm always a happy camper when the expresso is real - which it is there. For those who enjoy a drink before, with or after their meal, the Café's bar is fully stocked, including many hard-to-find European liqueurs and even some that are endowed with special powers to kill cold and flu viruses in their tracks! Prices have been maintained low.

Owner Mike Pohl reminded us that there are also hotel rooms within the property. Like the restaurant, they are spacious, comfortable, quiet and cheap, overlooking the garden! Contented repeat guests are ensuring that it remains a well-kept secret...

I highly recommend Café Frankfurt to anyone seeking hearty, authentic German fare in an unexpectedly delightful little tropical oasis of peace and serenity, right on Restaurant Row: 300 Basilio Badillo. Average 3-course meal, not including drinks or tips: less than $200. pesos. Tel.: 222-3403.

pvmomto3@hotmail.com

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