Trio's exciting culinary offerings are back! | | by
Ana Luz Velázquez - July 1st, 2002. |
We
knew that Trio had reopened its doors after 4 weeks dedicated to an in-depth check-up
and cleaning of the entire restaurant that included all the plumbing, equipment,
etc. The team of waiters, barmen, chefs and cooks took the opportunity to take
a well-deserved rest after an intense season. I wanted to
say hello to Bernhard Guth who was -as always- supervising the service and attention
to his customers in his usual friendly manner. He noticed that I had a sore throat
and presented me with an exquisite tea imported from London. The heady scent of
passion fruit and peach alone would have been enough to soothe my throat. Bernhard
told me that there were new dishes on the menu. "Now that it's hot, we like
to have something light, something cool, with lime," he said, "nothing
heavy, we removed the dark flavors of winter and we use more vinegars, more acidic
ingredients and more wine in the sauces." When he
described the Ceviche of Salmon, I forgot all about my pain and said, "Bernhard,
stop! I just have to try it!" Please believe me when I say it is exquisite.
The salmon is presented in thin slices "cooked" in lemon, olive oil
and chili, served cold on a bed of sauce made with yogurt, cucumber, tomato and
balsamic vinegar. The new dishes continue in the characteristic
Mediterranean-Vallarta style, like the Shrimp San Blas with marinated jicama and
mango, watercress and a cascabel vinaigrette; the zucchini soup that comes with
strips of chile poblano and mushrooms; the Parmesan Risotto with saffron mussels
or how about the Pargo fish bathed in spices, vegetables sautéed in garlic
and basil, in a ginger and lime sauce? At Trio, dishes
are free of excess and artificiality, they are neither saturated nor paltry. Here,
there is no unnecessary hurry, panic or voices raised. Trio is simply a pleasant,
delightful experience for the palate and the spirit. My
sore throat? It disappeared somewhere between the salmon, the tea and the comforting,
air-conditioned atmosphere that reigns throughout the restaurant. Trio
is located at 264 Guerrero St. in the heart of downtown. Tel.: 222-2196. analuz@pvmirror.com | 
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