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009601 Visit since
SPECIAL REPORTS
The idea was to do a special graphic
report on what some foreign visitors experience when
they take part in some of the most appealing tourist
activities available in Puerto Vallarta and/or surroundings.
In order to do so, I decided to join an eco-cultural
excursion called the "Tequila Six Pack", organized
by Harris Tours. The itinerary includes a visit to an
area of volcanic lava deposited by the Ceboruco Volcano,
the Ruins of Ixtlan, and the town of Tequila, birthplace
of the world's most famous elixir by means of which
part of our folklore and culture is identified - Tequila.
It was a beautiful sunny day and
I arrived on time at the entrance to Plaza Neptuno in
Marina Vallarta, from where the tour would depart. After
one stop to pick up some tourists staying in Nuevo Vallarta,
the tour per se began heading north. The bus was modern,
comfortable and air-conditioned. Eduardo introduced
himself as our coordinator and tour guide. We were 36
in all, 16 Canadians, 14 Americans, 5 Brits and me,
the sole Mexican on board.
The first thing we saw was the town
of Bucerias, located about 30 minutes from Vallarta,
located next to a beautiful beach. Before the highway
connecting La Cruz de Huanacaxtle and Puerto Vallarta
was built, this little town was known for the row of
food stands where one could enjoy a large variety of
seafood along the side of the road. Today, those stands
can be found along the beach. Due to its proximity to
Vallarta, now Bucerias offers a great variety of vacation
properties for rent, by the day, the week or the month.
About five minutes past Bucerias
we reached the point where the new highway meets the
two-lane highway, which is in excellent shape. We would
follow that road all the way to our final destination,
the town of Tequila, Jalisco.
From that point on, we would be entering
the Eastern Sierra Madre, known here as the Sierra de
Vallejo. Right away, we could see a wide range of vegetation
on both sides of the road that would continue to change
as we ventured further in a northwesterly direction.
This is where our guide Eduardo, born in Mexico City
and living in Vallarta for the last 10 years, began
to get involved with the group. His English pronunciation
was excellent. He explained that there are approximately
5,000 different species of plants in this region, some
of which are used for food and medicine, among others.
He also spoke to us about the kinds of wildlife living
in the area we were crossing and the factors that influenced
their existence. Along the way, we saw plantations of
mango, papaya, pineapple and tobacco to name but a few.
In my opinion, the most fascinating thing was that all
along the way, on both sides of the road, we could see
another of Mexico's many faces, rich in color and tradition
in the little villages we were passing.
The first official stop was a gas
station at the entrance to a little town called La Peñita.
This station has a mini-market, and clean washrooms.
Eduardo gave us each a package with fruit, bread and
a granola bar, along with coffee or juice - a nice,
light and nutritional breakfast. Some took advantage
of the stop to buy some refreshments, bottled water,
cookies, and to use the washrooms.
After about 15 minutes there, when
we had the opportunity to get to know each other a little
better, we got back on the road, heading for our second
stop, the volcano region where we would see the Ceboruco
Volcano. On that stretch, Eduardo suggested we take
a little nap and a lot of us did. When we reached the
observation point, we got out of the bus to climb a
little hill of volcanic rock from where we could see
the impressive volcano. During its eruption 150 years
ago, the lava it spewed forth spread for thousands and
thousands of kilometers around. From where we were,
we could see another volcano, still in its formative
stage, that was not yet ready to erupt… for now,
that is!
After seeing the volcanoes, we continued
on to Ixtlan del Rio, the place of the "ixtle"
or obsidian. Until about 20 years ago, when the four-lane
highway linking Guadalajara with Tepic was finished,
along with the turnoff to Compostela and then Puerto
Vallarta, Ixtlan was an inevitable point along the way
between Guadalajara and Puerto Vallarta. For a long
time, its development was based on passing tourists,
both national and foreign. Once the highway was finished,
although not completely, Ixtlan was cut off from tourist
influence. Now, in the hope of attracting foreign tourists
back, the state government of Nayarit and the local
authorities are promoting visits to the "Los Toriles"
archaeological zone, the next stop on our tour. They
are also promoting "La Sidra", a destination
I intend to visit in a very near future.
A little prior to reaching the archeological
zone of "Los Toriles", declared to be a cultural
heritage site in Mexico, in order to induce us and as
an introduction that would help us get into a solemn
state worthy of entering a privileged site, Eduardo
spoke to us of the beautiful legend of the Fifth Sun,
one that contains an enigmatic mysticism that motivates
us to transport ourselves mentally to faraway ancient
times, allowing us to perceive the lifestyle of our
ancestors, as well as the reason and magnitude of the
events they celebrated in this place.
As an interesting fact, I should
mention that fortunately, the present state of the ruins
is quite good, but we can see that -due to a lack of
proper resources and knowledge and although the restoration
work that began in 1950 was done with good intentions-
the wrong techniques and materials were used, i.e.:
dynamite, tiles, cement, stones, etc. Despite all that,
the building complex has maintained its ancestral essence.
Walking around there, we could feel an atmosphere I
would call spiritual, invaded by the god of wind that
caressed the cheeks of the visitors, transporting them
to other dimensions. The plain where this ancient settlement
is situated is lovely, set in a valley near the foot
of a little mountain from where, I am sure, our ancestors
could admire its great splendor.
Originally, this archeological zone
spread over more than 80 hectares. In early times, between
300 B.C. and 600 A.D., a cultural complex known as the
"Tumbas de Tiro" flourished here, characterized
by an underground architecture. Ceramics from that tradition
show an abundance of color. Between 750 and 900 A.D.,
a new way of life can be noted in the area, identified
as the middle Ixtlan period, a time that represented
the epitome of this city dedicated to the god of wind.
The archeological zone is located
between two rivers, which is why it is very fertile.
The city was made up of 15 buildings, all of which are
standing today. Among them is the Round Temple, the
Central Altar, the Palace of the Columns and the Worshipping
Stone, among others. It is not sure whether these were
built by the Nahuatl, the Toltec or others. Thanks to
pieces found with inscriptions in Nahuatl, it may be
ascertained that the Aztec did pass by this place on
their pilgrimages over three centuries, on their way
to the place where they finally founded marvelous Tenochtitlan.
Walking silently in this place enabled
me to connect with a past filled with mysticism that
transported me to relive times that I could never imagine,
even in my most adventurous and fantastic dreams. However
this time I wasn't dreaming, I could feel, through the
breeze that blew gently in different directions, that
for one moment in my life I had the privilege of standing
in a place that was sacred to its ancient inhabitants
- my ancestors.
We spent about one hour there. Afterwards,
we got underway again, headed for Tequila, with a stop
at the Tequila Sauza ranch one the way. That is where
they sow and harvest the agave azul used to make the
coveted liquor, the honorable drink that represents
Mexico around the world, Tequila.
The ranch was just a little before
the town of Tequila itself. We went through a security
gate and into the ranch where we were welcomed Pepe,
an old, expert "jimador" who is responsible
today for showing visitors the type of maguey chosen
here for planting, as well as the procedure for its
care, harvest and categorization prior to sending it
on to the distillery. Among the most relevant information
Pepe gave us was that each cactus or agave azul "pineapple"
gives about two gallons of Tequila. Pepe also talked
to us about the legend that says that Tequila was discovered
as a gift from the god of thunder. Nearly solemnly,
he told us the story of how the inhabitants of the region
were granted the privilege of discovering Tequila. The
legend in its entirety is delightful and rather that
retelling it, I invite you to hear it personally from
Pepe, translated by the guide, just like I did.
Among other things, we realized that
an expert "jimador" who knows how to use his
tools can plant one thousand small agave plants per
day. When Pepe gave us a demonstration of how the agave
is selected and planted, we just stood there with our
mouths open! He told us that a "jimador" is
paid twenty-five centavos of a peso for each plant.
This means that an expert "jimador" like him
could earn an average of $250.00 pesos per day for planting.
This amount is equivalent to approximately $22.00 U.S.
dollars per day. After he had given us his demonstration,
one of the tourists tried to plant some agaves. He soon
realized that this is not work that can be done by just
anyone. The work involved in planting, harvesting and
peeling the "pineapples" requires precision,
and total concentration. At harvest time, up to three
and a half tons of agave "pineapples" (the
heart of the plants) can be harvested every day!
We left the ranch very content, headed
for one of the most prestigious distilleries in Mexico,
renowned around the world… "Tequila Sauza".
When we reached the distillery, we
had to sign a document whereby we accepted to follow
the instructions we would receive - to the letter. The
facilities were impeccably clean. We were greeted by
our host and brought to the storehouse where the aging
barrels were stored. This is a truly impressive place
and from the entrance, we could detect the strong, sweet
aroma of the liquor produced by the aging of the Tequila
in its various presentations. Interesting fact: the
barrels used here are made of Canadian wood. For a moment,
the Canadian tourists among us felt very proud. In this
storehouse, like inside the distillery itself, it is
forbidden to take photographs or film, and without images,
it is very difficult to describe how fantastic this
place dedicated to the aging process really is. We received
a great deal of information, among which that clear
Tequila is composed of 65% alcohol and 35% sugar, also
why it is the most appropriate one for the preparation
of the famous "margaritas". For all those
who appreciate quality, that is where they told us that
the best Tequila on the market of the Sauza brand is
the "Tres Generaciones". According to our
host, this is the cream of all their Tequilas, their
export product.
After we heard about the different
times required for aging according to the type of Tequila,
we went on to see the distillery where they process
the agave "pineapple" and where the production
of the Tequila takes place, through its extraction,
distillation and fermentation.
Before going in, for our own protection,
we were invited to put on a protective cap. They also
took us to see a beautiful mural depicting the legend
of the discovery of Tequila, its harvest and the ancient
process of extraction, distillation and fermentation,
as well as what this liquid causes once it has been
consumed… The mural is truly spectacular and in
my opinion just being able to see it up close makes
the trip worthwhile. Once they gave us detailed explanations
of its meaning and let us take some pictures, we were
invited to go into the distillery and stay close to
each other.
We were guided through all the areas
and what we discovered along the way was really interesting.
All the equipment and machinery used nowadays to process
and obtain the Tequila is really fascinating. This distillery
is an excellent example of how technology has been able
to collaborate so that Tequila may be completely processed
and ready to be sent to aging in no more than 56 hours
- without losing its essence! In this distillery, following
a rigorous quality control, they can produce up to 300
bottles of Tequila per minute!
During the entire tour, our host
told us practically everything we needed to know and
understand about the process, all with an excellent
pronunciation of English, in a happy, clear and simple
fashion. Telling you what we heard without being there
would be senseless, and probably difficult to understand.
This type of information requires for the listener to
have the information reinforced by observation.
After we saw every corner of the
distillery, we were taken to the Hacienda that used
to be the home of the Sauza family, before it was purchased
by Casa Pedro Domeq. Today, this beautiful Hacienda
is used as a rest area for visitors and there is a tasting
of various types of Tequila on one of its fantastic
terraces, overlooking a patio surrounded by a lovely
cool garden. Here is also where we were served the lunch
that we were so eager to enjoy.
Obviously, the tasting was one of
the most entertaining events of the day. Many tasted
more than one and by the time they began to serve lunch,
some were already happier than you can imagine…
For my taste, the lunch was simply excellent! We had
an exquisite cream of squash and we could choose either
chicken or beef for the main course. Like the good Mexican
that I am, I chose the beef. It was prepared with a
ranch seasoning better than I've had in years. It was
a good time to spend together and get to know each other
better. The topics of conversation were varied and we
all enjoyed the perfect weather. With the help of the
Tequila, we could hear the smiles all around.
After lunch, we were invited to get
to know the Hacienda a little better. That too was a
fascinating feature of the tour. The Hacienda was built
about 125 years ago and the maintenance work ensured
that all its authentic ancient details remained just
as they were back then. Today, each of the rooms is
used to exhibit furniture, paintings, photos and other
details -museum-style- allowing us to go back in time.
One of the corners that caught my attention was the
little chapel dedicated to the Virgin of Guadalupe.
Its simplicity, elegance and quiet made me feel that
I had to kneel in front of her to give her thanks for
having allowed me to be there. For us Mexicans, the
Virgin of Guadalupe is our infinitely bountiful mother
who always intercedes on behalf of her children so that
they may be well. The devotion to the Virgin of Guadalupe
is such that more than 91% of Mexicans living in our
country pray to her every day. We also celebrate her
with passion and devotion on her day, December 12th.
After Mexico City, Puerto Vallarta is the second city
to demonstrate such devotion to the Virgin during these
celebrations.
In the Hacienda, there is also a
small boutique, in very good taste, where we can purchase
T-shirts, caps, shirts, glasses, souvenirs and such,
obviously all reminiscent of Tequila Sauza. The most
important for Tequila lovers is to return home with
liquor, and here it can be purchased at distillery prices!
After going through the whole Hacienda
and taking dozens of photos, we were told that the time
had come for us to go back to the bus. When we got to
the bus, we were advised that, due to causes beyond
our control, we would return in another bus. They brought
us to the entrance to the town of Tequila for the transfer.
There is a monument to the "jimador" there,
the character to whom the city owes its name, its growth,
its present and its future, whatever that may come to
be.
We boarded the new bus and headed
back toward Puerto Vallarta. Most of us took advantage
of the time to relax and catch a few winks. Personally,
I read a book that Eduardo had lent me, that deals with
the life and traditions of the Huichol Indians. The
book moved me and when I finished it, I promised myself
to visit some of their villages to know more about what
a documentary made by the Discovery Channel stated:
"The Huichol are the last link that still exists
between Mexico, its ancestral culture and that of today."
Harris Tours also organizes a tour that visits places
where the Huichol live and I will probably have the
pleasure to join them on that adventure soon.
According to most of us who enjoyed
this trip, it was very educational and very interesting.
Taking into consideration that this is an eco-cultural
tour, the guide's training, the spirit of service and
attention he showed us, as did all those who offered
us service and information throughout our excursion,
personally, I would recommend it highly for adults over
21.
The tour lasts from 8:00 A.M. to
8:00 P.M. It includes transportation by air-conditioned
bus, a light breakfast, lunch and drinks at the Hacienda,
Tequila tasting and entrance to the distillery, all
for $750.00 pesos per person.
Some recommendations:
· Bring a camera and/or camcoder.
· Dress comfortably with sneakers or walking
shoes. Bring a towel.
· Bring insect repellant and sun block.
· Bring money in pesos for purchases.
· Bring pills against carsickness - should the
need arise.
If you want to know more about this
excursion, I suggest you visit Harris Tours' web site
at: http://www.harristours.com or contact them directly
by e-mail at: info@harristours.com
Once again, thank you so much to
all those who allowed me to share this excursion with
them, and especially our guide Eduardo and the Harris
Tours company. We will soon publish the graphic report
of another venture in this section.
For any comments, questions or suggestions,
please do not hesitate to contact me at: editor@pvmirror.com
I am at your service.
Sincerely,
Jesús de Avila
Graphic Reporter - Editor
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At the volcano:
In the Ruins:
In the Ranch:
In the town of Tequila:
In the Destilery and the Tequila Sauza
Hacienda:
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