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| Soufflés at Trio… the lightest form of seduction |
| by Anna Reisman - October 28, 2002. | The
incredible lightness of being… a soufflé. As light as air, these exquisite
culinary concoctions date back to the 1600's. History tells us that diners at
the royal courts of France were often served banquets with as many as 25 courses.
With the purpose of tasting as many dishes as possible in mind, but with less
"opulence", the soufflé was invented. In French, the word means
"blown", this is due to the lightness of the dish. Bernhard
Güth and Ulf Henriksson, owner-chefs of Trio Restaurant, are passionate when
it comes to good food. After all, these are the boys who were awarded the Five
Star Diamond Award last spring, an award that guarantees the pair's commitment
to achieve excellence and quality across the board: gastronomy, service and hospitality,
a recognition awarded by the American Academy of Hospitality Sciences only to
the very best hotels, restaurants, airlines and chefs worldwide. (Members are
anonymous evaluators and inspectors in each section. These valuations are executed
without the knowledge of the establishments. To date, there are only 5 restaurants
in all of Mexico to be awarded this prize. Trio was the fifth.) They
told us, "we cook for the flavors, the base of all cuisine is classic. We
don't go by appearances, at Trio, everything is honest when it comes to the flavor
of the food. If it's a soup, we use meat in its preparation, we capture the flavors
of the vegetables, the meat or the spices, and we try to incorporate them into
our sauces so they really permeate them." Diners
at Trio are always confronted with difficult choices when they are presented with
the menu. The plethora of exquisite dishes is overwhelming - Lebanese beet salad
with goat cheese (a favorite), fried soft-shell crabs, cappelletti soup with ravioli
and Provolone, the homemade pastas like the open ravioli with shrimp and strips
of fish in a lobster sauce, paella, oven-roasted rabbit with garlic-parsley sauce,
rack of lamb… and now - until Thursday, October 31st, - a festival of soufflés! The
list of soufflés offered as appetizers, main courses and desserts, is too
long to print here. They are small, succulent, and light as air as they should
be. In addition, Trio's atmosphere will delight your other
senses too: Angelina Kyba's colorful paintings decorate the walls, nouveau flamenco
music plays softly in the background, the service is excellent and attentive and
the general décor is elegant, reminiscent of the best restaurants abroad.
Also, the wine list includes some of the best French and Italian wines around.
All in all, with its consistent level of excellence on all fronts, it is no surprise
that this establishment is always filled to capacity. Consequently, reservations
are highly recommended! An average "Five Star Diamond
Award" three-course meal at Trio will cost approximately $300. pesos not
including drinks or tips anna@pvmirror.com Archives
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